I’m beginning to call this the Summer of Smoke. Everywhere we go is covered in a haze, including the Grand Tetons. While the air quality wasn’t bad like Crater Lake, our views were obscured by a layer of gauzy smoke giving them a painterly, slightly out of focus quality and making the Grand Tetons a little disappointing.
Because we were having issues with our solar system, we needed to return to Oregon. So after our time at Bryce we hit pause on our Utah summer and headed north yet again. We opted for long driving days, heading first to North Salt Lake City and then to Boise. Hello again Mom and Dad! 🙂
After a couple of days rest we pushed on to Sisters, a small town outside Bend, OR. Here we found a dry, dusty camping spot (at least it was free) and spent a few days doing errands, exploring Sisters, and hitting up the farmer’s market.
The highlight was a short hike to Tumalo Falls. You can take a shot of the waterfall after a 1/2 mile walk to the viewpoint…
or this one from above…
or even walk another mile to a double falls…
but the most impressive views are from below the Tumalo Falls on a not-quite official trail.
From Sisters we drove early Monday morning for our appointment at AM Solar.
While they didn’t do the original install of our system, those guys worked hard, treated us fairly, and made our system better than it’s ever been. A true work of art!
Oh, and if you’re ever in Springfield be sure to stop at the Fisherman’s Market for some yummy eats. We ate there two days in a row! Fish n’ chips and fish tacos were excellent. You can also pick up fresh caught fish to grill at home.
From Springfield we headed to Waldo Lake, touted as one of the best kayaking lakes in the Northwest. Waldo Lake sits in the Willamette National Forest, about midway between Springfield and Bend. Surprisingly the 14 mile forest service road into the North Waldo campground is paved. The campground itself isn’t much, but we found a spot with lake views from our front windows and a short walk to the water’s edge.
The lake was an incredible blue color and so clear you could see bottom.
We kayaked two days in a row (the first time in a long, long time) and our arms were so sore we could barely lift them. I think it was mostly from carrying the kayak over the logs and down to the water and back, but if ever there was a lake that deserved kayaking this was it! If we had cell service we would have stayed a week and kayaked every day, but we needed to move on.
I was watching reports of the wildfires and smoke while we were in Springfield, but hadn’t been able to get any updates at Waldo. So we headed onto Crater Lake knowing that it might not be great, but we figured we were so close we might as well go.
We arrived to a smoky campground and the bizarre rule that you had to renew your first-come first-serve site daily. This was crazy since the campground was so sparsely occupied. The best chance for clear views seemed to be early in the day, so the next morning after stopping by the booth when they opened at 8am to renew we headed off for the drive around the lake.
The smoke didn’t obstruct the cool interior of the lodge…
or the great park architecture…
or the interesting little hike we took behind this building to see this carving in a rock…
or the pretty wildflowers.
I think we could have loved this park and easily spent a week exploring if the smoke hadn’t been so bad. But two nights of smoke was about all we could handle.
Our original plan had been to head to Lassen National Park and possibly the Redwoods before making our way down 395 in CA and onto Zion in late September. Unfortunately that’s where the fires and the worst of the smoke were concentrated. Wanting to get out of the red zone (unhealthy smoke) and into at least the yellow zone (moderate) I scoured the smoke maps and forecasts. Since we have reservations in Zion at the end of September we didn’t want to head further north or west to the coast. It looked like heading back through Idaho (again? are you kidding me?!!!) was the best direction. So off to Grand Teton and Yellowstone we go!
More Utah adventures in Bryce Canyon
July 5 – 14, 2018
These are the things they don’t tell you about Utah: it’s dry and dusty and windy and most of all the elevations are killer! I should have known something was up when the tagline on all the tourist brochures read Utah, Life Elevated, but I was too distracted by the spectacular pictures of the red rock vistas. 🙂
Even with the high elevations you don’t get a break from the heat, many of our days were spent in the 90s and even 100s. The only saving grace isthat it cools off at night. I didn’t realize how the heat combines with the elevation to totally wipe out your energy. You would think that since we’ve been at over 5000’ for the last month I’d be somewhat acclimated, but apparently not since my heart rate shot up and I was breathing hard with every little bit of exertion. Of course Bryce sits at 8000 feet so we had climbed even higher. Let’s blame it on that.
We were worried this would be another very crowded national park campground, especially since it was a holiday week. So we got up super early for the drive from Escalante and ended up arriving too early. We found a good site at 9am, but by noon most of the other campers had left and we could have had our pick.
That’s ok we enjoyed watching the park police pull folks over (I presume for speeding) and some sort of propane leak scare involving the fire department in the day-use parking lot below us. And we were just a short walk from the visitor’s center, shuttle bus, and right on the bike path which we rode up to the lodge one afternoon.
We saw the old service station that used to serve the park before private businesses set up shop just outside the park.
The lodge and cabins had cool log cabin architecture.
Nearly every hike in Bryce starts with a descent into the canyon, a bunch of little hills and the promise of a steep climb back up at the end. That combined with the elevation factor meant our hikes here required a lot more stops and a slower pace plus a day off to recuperate. Still we managed to get out quite a bit.
For our first foray, I decided to avoid the steep climb with a hike along the rim. This gave us a good overview of the canyon that we’d later explore. We started by boarding the free park shuttle near the campground and riding to it’s furthest stop, Inspiration Point. From there it was about a 2.5 mile, mostly downhill trek back with every little turn giving a different view of the canyon. Because you can see so far and with the way the light falls on the hoodoos, sometimes it’s hard to have any depth perception when looking into the canyon.
Next up was the Navajo-Peekaboo Loop Trail, our most ambitious hike at 5 miles with 1500’ of elevation gain. We had everything packed and ready the night before so we could get an early start to avoid the parking crowds and beat the heat. We started with the steep downhill through the Wall Street area and into the canyon.
Then the Peekaboo Loop took us up close with some of the hoodoos. It was a lot of up and down and since it is also used by the horse tours, parts were pretty smelly.
On this hike we earned our “I Hiked the Hoodoos” status by collecting selfies with various markers in the canyon.
The last leg came back up past Thor’s Hammer.
It was a trek, but well-worth it!
Over the weekend we took the 18 mile drive to Rainbow Point. Since most folks stay in the Bryce Amphitheater area which is accessible via the shuttle, this drive further into Bryce Canyon is less crowded. I had read somewhere to drive all the way to the end and then stop at the viewpoints on the way back. This turned out to be good advice since the pullouts were then on the right hand side and easier to enter and exit. Also by the time we finished at Rainbow Point the parking lot was overfilled. Be sure to visit both the Rainbow and Yovimpa viewpoints while you’re parked there. Many folks missed the second as it isn’t well marked.
We originally paid for a week at our campsite, but decided to extend a few more days and take one more hike into the canyon. The views were just too amazing to miss. This time we did the Queen’s-Navajo Loop. It started with a gentler descent into the canyon ending up at a hoodoo named for it’s resemblance to Queen Victoria.
Then instead of heading back the way we came we figured we’d go up the Navajo trail through Wall Street since it had looked so cool the day we hiked down it. We were glad to be finished up by early afternoon as thunderstorms moved in.
The views here never grow old. Every time we ventured to the rim, we were in awe.
And so we spent our entire stay in the park even though there are many other things to see in the area. Guess we’ll just save those other places for next time.
When we left on this adventure, at the very top of our list were the Utah parks. Two years later we’ve finally made it to our first one and I have to admit I’m having a hard time writing this post because we have so many awesome pictures, yet they don’t quite capture the wonder of Capitol Reef.
Capitol Reef National Park is one of the lesser known Utah parks. It straddles the highway so most folks just drive through on their way from Zion and Bryce up to Arches and Canyonlands but boy are they missing out. With it’s campground set among the orchards and the spectacular geology all around, Capitol Reef is an amazing park! It may well turn out to be my favorite in Utah, but I guess I should reserve judgement until I’ve seen the other four. 🙂 Continue reading “To Utah!”
There you are driving through Idaho’s hills and green fields with snow capped peaks in the distance and then suddenly you end up in this strange land.
Craters of the Moon National Monument has been on our list since the start of this adventure. Since it wasn’t too far off our route to Utah we decided to spend a few days there.
Boy did we luck out. Without knowing it we hit prime wildflower bloom. The Monkeyflower’s entire life cycle (sprout, bloom, seed, wither and die) takes only 3 weeks and we were here for the bloom! Those tiny, pink flowersadded a beautiful contrast to the dark volcanic rock.
This place is really strange, especially for being in the middle of Idaho. It feels more like Hawaii, and in fact all the signs explaining the different types of rock had pictures of lava from Hawaii. Mostly this place reminded us of the lava flow we visited in New Mexico, Valley of Fires, especially on our first night when we walked from the campground to the Trail of Lava.
The next day we drove to the wilderness trail parking area. There were two trails, one to the tree molds which are impressions of trees laying flat in the lava. The other trail said it went to Lava Trees, described as an upright version. I thought this sounded interesting so off we went. The trail started out through some awesome lava rocks, then came into more of a meadow with small cinders, almost like lava rock gravel. The wildflowers seem to love these areas.
Finally we saw the sign for the lava trees. It wasn’t what I expected, but it was cool. The lava surrounded the tree and as the tree burned the steam cooled the lava enough to harden it into an impression of the tree leaving tree shaped voids.
On our last day we drove the short loop again, this time stopping at several other areas. We skipped the very popular Inferno Cone where lots of visitor’s were hiking up the barren cone and instead stopped at the nearby Spatter Cones area.
After a quick look into the spatter cones we hiked up the steep trail to Big Crater. We had been joking that there were no craters at Craters of the Moon, but after the short steep climb we found the craters! And great views around as well.
It’s a hike that wasn’t really at the top of the ranger recommendations, but was definitely worth it! Our last stop on the loop was Devil’s Orchard, another great area to view wildflowers.
Overall Craters of the Moon was a great stop with much more variety in the lava formations than we had seen at Valley of Fires, plus the wildflowers were gorgeous!