Big Bend Part 2

Rio Village Campground
Nights: 3
Hikes: 2

Since it takes nearly 2 hours to drive from one end of Big Bend to the other, we decided to camp a few days on the eastern side of the park. We found less of the spectacular geologic scenery of the western side of the park here and it seemed a bit more arid. It turned out we were glad we had spent more time on the other side and if you can only visit one part I would say go for the western side of the park. Still there were some good views here.

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View of the Rio Grande from the Hot Springs trail. On the right side is Mexico.

Again we hiked to a canyon carved by the Rio Grande at this end of the park. Boquillas Canyon was not quite as spectacular, maybe because you couldn’t get as far into the canyon with the trail washed away or maybe because the lighting wasn’t great in the afternoon when we went. We did spot a turtle on the bank of the river though so add that to our list of wildlife seen at Big Bend.

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On certain days you can also cross the border via rowboat at Boquillas to visit a small Mexican town, but since we have been to Mexico numerous times we passed.

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Mexican artists illegally cross the river to set up trinkets for sale. We saw several of these little collections along the trail. They don’t stick around to get caught, but leave a jar for your money. The park warns visitors it is illegal to buy anything from them.

We hadn’t seen many Airstreams in the midwest but here in Texas we’re seeing more. We met two other Airstream couples in the campground and it was fun to chat with them. One couple from San Antonio are about two years away from following in our path. They had lots of questions about going full-time and how we had outfitted our Airstream. There is an instant connection with other Airstreamers and it’s nice having that community. In fact we’re already planning a trip to the Airstream factory in May for their big rally.

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If we walked across from our campsite we had this view of the evening light on the cliffs. 

A big draw of this area of Big Bend is the natural hot spring on the shores of the river. A business man built a small store and motor court here in the 1930s and a few of the buildings still remain.

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The mineral rich water was thought to be healing and it still bubbles up in the foundations of the spa at a constant 105 degrees.

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Yes, that muddy water is the Rio Grande.

Many hikers come to soak in it, but we found the nearby petroglyphs, pictographs and rock formations more interesting.

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The red markings are pictographs, painted images left by early inhabitants.
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The thick and thin layers of rock along the trail were full of color.

Overall, Big Bend left us excited for more of the grandeur our National Parks protect for everyone to enjoy. We’ve only visited six parks so far and already we can’t believe the amazing things we’ve seen.

Big Bend Part 1

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Cottonwood Campground: 5 nights
Hikes: 3
Bug Bites: 2
Wildlife: 6 javelinas (they came through the campground each evening), 5 tarantulas (2 on the path, 3 on the road), vermillion flycatcher (beautiful bird with bright green wings and a fiery red/orange head and breast), a great horned owl, our first snake (luckily not a rattler), roadrunners, walking sticks, butterflies (at least 6 different kinds), lizards, orange and white spotted grasshopper, and lots of other birds.

We were so excited to be in another National Park (this is #6). While the state parks we’ve been in have been interesting, we were struck again by the grandness of our national parks. Big Bend wowed us with its sweeping and varied views, sheer size, stark dessert beauty, geology, and even a bit of history. The campground was near the end of the Ross Maxell Scenic Drive, about 26 miles from the western entrance, so we were treated to spectacular views for our first impression of the park.

 

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This US Boundary marker was right in our campsite, but I think it had been moved.

The campground itself wasn’t that impressive, but it did put us in a good locale to explore this side of the park. Interestingly they flood the campground each evening to irrigate the grass and trees, and although the parking pads are elevated, it does make for muggy and buggy conditions. Still in the afternoon we enjoyed sitting in the shade of the trailer enjoying the view. Most of the time it was warm, up to 90 degrees. We had an awesome storm one night with the thunder actually shaking the trailer.

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On our first day we took the scenic drive, this time stopping at all the pullouts and signage, much easier without a 30’ trailer in tow. They have very small visitor centers at this park, but make up for it with informative roadside displays, which is almost better because you are seeing the actual things they talk about instead of seeing a picture of it at the visitor’s center. We learned about the geology of the park, as well as, the history of ranching, farming and cross border trade in the region. Below is Tuff Canyon, an area formed from volcanic ash.

We took a short hike to the Burro Mesa Pouroff. A pouroff is a dry waterfall, only filled with water during rains. You had to get all the way inside to see all of it’s coolness. We also walked a short path through the remains of the old Sam Hill Ranch. The windmill still operates to provide water to the fig and pecan trees planted years ago.

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The approach
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Inside the pouroff

We continued all the way to the Chisos Basin, climbing from our campground’s 2100’ elevation to 4500. Here you are guaranteed about 10 degree cooler weather. The change in vegetation was quite apparent too as trees became a part of the landscape. There is a campground here, but the tight turns in the mountain road and small sites prohibit larger RVs. This is also where you can find bears in the park. On a map in the visitor’s center people marked where they had seen them and it was obvious they were quite active feeding up for the winter. The most popular hike was closed due to bear activity so we didn’t end up taking any hikes up here.

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The Window in Chisos Basin

Big Bend is the only national park to contain an entire mountain range, and while it is a big park, the “Big” in the name refers to the giant bend the Rio Grande takes here. On our second day we hiked to Saint Elena Canyon to see the canyon formed by this famous river. It seemed amazing that we were staring right at Mexico. In fact there were signs warning you not to cross the center of the river or you could get in trouble for an illegal border crossing. The muddy water did not look inviting to us so no worries there.

Our final hike on this side of the park took us 7 miles down a dirt road, seemingly into the middle of nothing. But a short easy walk led us through a valley of rocky hills. Then a scramble up the rocky hillside and we made it to Balanced Rock. All around were boulders to climb on. It was nature’s version of a jungle gym and it brought out the kid in me.

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Yep, that’s the trail, a scramble up the rocks.
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That’s me climbing boulders on the far right.

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A nice view of the canyon on the way back.

Back at the campsite a great view to enjoy while relaxing with a giant glass of refreshing lime water! By the way that cliff in the distance is Mexico. 🙂

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Lime Water
Squeeze 1/4 lime in a large glass with ice.
Fill half way with club soda.
Add filtered water to the top.